Enjoying Delicious Food, Fine Wines and Incredible Scenery Along French Waterways *ONLINE ONLY*
July 2025
By Victor Block
In the 17th century, King Henry IV of France decreed that a giant ditch be dug across the country connecting the Atlantic Ocean and Mediterranean Sea. Soon, barges pulled by horses or people transported raw materials, grain, textiles and – this being France, wine -- through the channel.
That waterway was the first of an elaborate network of canals that criss-cross the countryside, passing over aqueducts and through tunnels, and navigating locks which enable them to climb up and down hills.
I recently followed one of these routes, but the formerly no-frills working boat in which I rode had been transformed into a luxurious floating hotel and gourmet restaurant. It carries 12 passengers, stopping each day to allow travelers to explore an inviting variety of attractions.
I was sailing with French Country Waterways, an American-owned company that operates luxurious passenger barges along canals in four regions of that country.
The Nenuphar on which I traveled was built in the 1930s to serve as a working boat. Today, it rivals multi-starred hotels in which I’ve stayed. Cherry wood paneling, brass fittings and lovely provincial furnishings set the tone. Cabins have a private bathroom and individual heat/air conditioning controls. The lounge invites relaxing on comfortable sofas and chairs, and offers a well-stocked complimentary bar.
The food and wine served aboard the barge vie for admiration with the magnificent scenery through which the boat passed. Think foie gras with brioche and apple. Picture confit duck, braised red cabbage and haricot beans.
Then there’s the French claim that no lunch or dinner is complete without wine. We were offered vintages representing many of the country’s renowned wine-growing districts, often from Grand Gru (great growth) and Premier Cru (first growth) vineyards. The wines were chosen directly from the properties of the growers and the final list is selected during an annual tasting of estate-bottled labels.
As the vessel moves slowly along canals, those on board face a welcome choice of alternatives. Relax and watch other boats pass by. Step ashore at one of the locks the boat traverses and walk, or pedal a provided bicycle, to the next lock. Go to the front deck and watch the barge navigate through one of the locks that raise or lower the water level.
Because the canals climb hills and run through valleys, locks handle changes in elevation. These devices allow boats to rise up, or drop down, to the level of the next stretch of the channel.
The canals provide passengers with views of lovely rolling vineyards and lush farmlands along with charming villages. Typical, yet with unique distinctions, is Montargis.
Due to its many canals and bridges – I was told it has 131 overpasses - the town is known as "the Venice of the region, " and has been listed as one of the most beautiful places to visit in France. Its Medieval downtown area, bridges and canals are decorated with a multitude of flowers. Strolling through the town during a shore excursion, I spotted a house with “1337” above its front door – the year it was built.
Sancerre is an enchanting ancient hilltop wine village. Outside of the peak summer tourist months, it’s a sleepy place similar to other small towns where few people are seen walking along the steep, narrow streets. Houses sport ancient doors, wrought iron balconies and steeply pitched roofs.
History-rich villages, inviting vineyards and world-class food and wines greet visitors to France with open arms. Taking in these attractions during a canal barge cruise adds a welcome way to enjoy much that the popular destination has to offer and, to me, the boat cruise alone is worth the cost.
Fares for French Country Waterways cruises include all of the on-board gourmet meals and fine wines, a memorable dinner at a starred "Michelin Guide" restaurant, around-the-clock snacks and open bar, shore excursions and more. For more information, log onto fcwl.com or call 800-222-1236.